You can guess how the Knuckles got their name. The mountain range east of Kandy, in the centre of Sri Lanka, is as knobbly as a clenched fist. The Sinhalese name for them is Dumbara Kandu Watiye, which implies misty mountains, and in the mornings they are concealed by clouds, which quickly burn off as the temperature notches up.The hill nation, to where city residents leave when cities end up being unbearably hot, can itself get extremely warm. In March the sides of some hills looked like charred cashews, charred by the sun. Even the residents stated it was roasting, although– unlike me– none of them were breaking a sweat. I was there with a friend, Jess, and we were travelling (rather gradually) between

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